Bieszczady – The Last Wilderness: Hiking the Carpathians Day 1


I started planning my first lonely and longer trip last year (2014) when I decided to seriously start hiking. Destination – Bieszczady mountains in Poland, date beginning of May. I dedicated first months of the year to planning and gathering and preparing my gear. May arrived fast and with it an ultimate, first test of my gear and skills. The weather was suppose to be mixed, little bit of everything. Four day hike was covering last section of Beskid Main Trail (Główny Szlak Beskidzki) as well as mountains Wielka Rawka and Mała Rawka – all of it making for around 80km. Second day was worrying me the most as I had 25km to hike through two of the highest ridges. Overall I didn’t plan any major difficulties but as it became clear later, not everything went as it was suppose to.

As Bieszczady are located in south-east of Poland I had to spend one whole day to get to my trail head, little village called Cisna. After 7h of travel with multiple buses I reached my first  shelter, nice place called “Pod Kudłatym Aniołem”. Next day I wanted to start as early as possible  so at 9PM I was already in bed and covered silence I fell asleep.

Day 1 – 10th of May => Cisna-Małe Jasło-Jasło-Fereczata-Smerek Wieś

Without an alarm clock I was up at 5:40AM rested and full of power. Fast breakfast, packing and I was already out. Taking on trail marked with red line I followed it into direction Małe Jasło. Initially the trail leads directly on the train tracks which is slightly disorienting. Shortly after that however, it takes you right straight into the forest. Almost immediately path becomes very steep. With full backpack and not broken into in no time I was huffing and puffing heavily. After about 1.5h woods started losing its density and you could see more than just near tree stems. Trail was very muddy and in many places there were still snow patches. Weather however was amazing – warm and sunny with just couple of clouds, perfect hiking weather.

During short photo brake on the ridge I met 3 guys what made me realize that I must’ve been really slow as they left the village after me and reached the ridge 5 minutes after me. They were the first people I met that day. After short chat and photo services exchange they continued and I used bit more time to enjoy the views. Małe Jasło summit ascension was very tiring but it was worth it – first summit of the trip reached!

Somewhere between Małe Jasło and Szczawnik I decided on a proper rest. I found super nice spot surrounded by blueberry bushes. Enjoying the sun I recharged my batteries and continued into direction Jasło. The views from the top of the mountain compensated for all difficulties. That’s also where I met my 3 guys again. They were hiking the complete Main Beskid Trail (Główny Szlak Beskidzki) and were already 15 days on the trail.

Descending I met trail runners warning me against a viper they’ve seen on the trail. Fortunately I avoided the doubtful pleasure of seeing it as well. Already then the weather started changing – thick clouds covered the sun and it started raining a bit. I speed up not wanting to get wet and knowing I still had quite a bit to hike.

The next part of the trail was ups and downs all the time. I passed Okrąglik and swiftly (autosuggestion) hiked towards Fereczata. It became colder and I was predicting I was getting wet after all. After reaching Fereczata summit I started a very steep and muddy descent. I was hiking for couple of hours now and next fallen tree was a perfect place to rest. Tired and cold I watched another trail runners passing by – full respect for those guys. After small snack and short brake I resumed hiking down to the village Smerek Wieś  where I had a place to stay. The trail was terrible – deep ruts filled with mud. Super wet and very hard to hike. At times sliding down on my butt seemed like a better option. It started raining bit more but I didn’t take out my rain gear as I thought my mid layer with DWR would suffice. Well it didn’t and I got totally wet in the end.

The last part of the trail was very monotonous and it lasted an eternity. When I reached the shelter it was only early afternoon and I had plenty of time to rest, dry, cook, contact my family and go through the next day. I had a nice, warm room  in a place called “Paweł nie całkiem święty”. Everything would be perfect if it wasn’t for the fact that the walls were super thin and you heard everything  happening in the house. The night showed how bad this can be.

Hiking the Carpathians p.2 

  Check out detailed info on that trip below!

DetailsGPS dataGetting thereLiterature
  • Difficulty  Medium
  • Distance  16.37km
  • Time  07:00h
  • Ascent  885 m
  • Descent  -839 m
  • A to B
  • Altitude                          »Max. 1144m               »Min. 557m


Bieszczady Mountains (Poland) 1:65,000 Hiking MapGreat map with all the necessary details showing the exact route as well as many other trails around that region. I highly recommend it.

Meet the Author

Trail Maiden i.e. Karo is an optimistic outdoor fanatic. She has founded to share her knowledge and experiences with all the nature loving hikers out there. When not hiking she’s planning her next trip or her next tattoo but knowing her it’s probably both ;)

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